Peter the First Island

Posted by admin on 29 Oct 2007 | Tagged as: Waterblogged

Peter I IslandSunset over the Sea Ice

24 Oct 2007

Peter I island rises suddenly out of the sea, a lonely mountain covered with thick glaciers. At 1640m (5750ft) it pierces the upper winds, creating its own weather and leaving a streamer of clouds that often trails a thousand miles across the Peninsula and into the Weddell sea. The nearest land mass, the Antarctic continent, is several hundred miles away and is so inaccessible that no country has even bothered to make a claim on it. On this “wedge” of the continent there are no permanent stations, very few field camps, and nothing along the shore line — if you could even reach it.

Penguins and Portholes

Posted by admin on 05 Oct 2007 | Tagged as: Waterblogged

Emperor PenguinsEmperor PenguinsEmperor PenguinsEmperor penguin diving in

The bridge of the ship is six decks above the water line. Glassed-in on four sides, it offers the best views of the surrounding environment. The frozen ocean is an abstract artwork of bergs, floes and drifts in the shapes of obelisks, pyramids, and distant mesas. Late mornings before my shift begins I like to go there and read.

By comparison, many of the rooms on the ship have no windows at all, or else small portholes offering only a tunnel-view of the outside world. My cabin, like most, has a single window, with a view obscured by stairways and parts of the superstructure. So it is surprising that, one day earlier this week, when I looked out the window in the morning I saw a group of six emperor penguins huddled on the ice near the ship.

Seeing emperors is a big deal for me because they don’t often come near the stations (I’ve seen them twice at McMurdo, from a distance, and never at Palmer). This time they were close, the day was sunny, and I had the opportunity to take some good pictures. The ship’s crew sees them frequently because penguins seem to be attracted to anything out of the ordinary. If the ship stops in the ice for several hours it’s common to have a group of emperors come close for a visit. Likewise, when the science groups started doing work out on the ice they had to negotiate around a group of curious penguins. I think they’re starved for any stimulation.

Palmer Station, Antarctica

Posted by admin on 13 Sep 2007 | Tagged as: Waterblogged

Palmer StationPalmer Station Sunrise

We dropped in to Palmer Station, a place I know very well. I’ve spent 6 seasons there, including four winters. But this is very weird because we’re not staying, and I had no expectation to come here again this year. Still, it was a fun visit because I know several of the Palmer crew.

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